Sandbur
Are burrs taking over your lawn? Find out how to get rid of grassburs.
Grassburs are prickly weeds that grow in warm climates. Also, they particularly like sandy soils. They produce sharp, painful seeds. The seeds stick to skin, clothing, and pets. They make lawns uncomfortable to walk on. Not to mention, burs are difficult to remove. Managing them is important for maintaining a healthy, safe lawn.
Also Known As: Sandburs, Grassburs, Sticker Burrs/Burr Stickers, Pricking Monsters, Lawn/Grass Stickers.
Generally, these are all referring to the same nasty weed. Not to mention, they thrive in the heat and are prominently found in Bermuda and St. Augustine lawns.
Read more about Bermuda grass and St. Augustine grass.
Sticker burrs are common in dry states like Texas, New Mexico, and Arizona. Read our “Weed Identification Guide” to learn how to identify Texas weeds.
Bur stickers love sandy soil, but they are able to survive in other types of soils as well. Additionally, depending on where the burrs are in their life cycle, treatment options differ.
If you have had to deal with grassburs before, you’ll enjoy this article that explains the most effective ways to eliminate them.
Grassburs (also known as sandburs) are a major headache, but with the right approach, you can keep them under control. The key is to prevent them before they start growing and take extra steps to remove any that make it through.
The best way to stop grassburs is to prevent them from sprouting in the first place. A good pre-emergent herbicide creates a barrier in the soil that stops the seeds from germinating. Apply it early—before soil temperatures reach 52–72°F, which usually means by April 1st in North Texas. If you have a heavy infestation, reapply every six weeks through September. For lighter issues, two applications (six weeks apart) should be enough. Before applying, clear away leaves and grass clippings so the herbicide can reach the soil effectively.
If grassburs have already sprouted, a post-emergent herbicide is your best bet. 2,4-D products work well when combined with quinclorac products on young grassburs before they mature. Liquid formulas are generally more effective than granular ones since they coat the weeds better. Just be sure to follow the product instructions and check that it’s safe for your specific type of grass—especially if you have St. Augustine.
A dense, well-maintained lawn is the best defense against grassburs. These pesky weeds thrive in dry, thin grass, so regular watering and proper fertilization will help your turf outcompete them. Keeping your lawn thick and healthy makes it harder for burrs to take hold.
Mowing correctly can make a big difference. Lower your mower height slightly and mow more frequently—at least twice a week for the first couple of weeks—to keep grassburs from producing seeds. Always use a mower bag! If you mow without one, you’ll just spread the seeds around, making the problem worse.
If you’re looking for a more natural approach, Orange Oil is sometimes recommended as an organic weed killer. Apply it between May and July for the best results. Keep in mind that organic herbicides may not be as strong as synthetic ones, so you may need multiple applications. Avoid using MSMA, as it’s not eco-friendly and can be harmful to pets and children.
Grassburs are stubborn. Stick with a consistent plan, and you’ll see results!
Why Pre-Emergent Matters: Pre-emergent herbicides create a barrier in the soil to prevent grassbur seeds from germinating. Timing is critical—apply before soil temperatures consistently hit 55–60°F (typically late winter/early spring in Texas).
Prodiamine (e.g., Barricade, Stonewall) Why It Works: Blocks cell division in germinating seeds, stopping grassy weeds like sandburs before they emerge. Long-lasting (3–6 months).
Note: Safe for St. Augustine, Bermuda, Zoysia, and Centipede lawns. Avoid using on newly seeded turf.
Dithiopyr (e.g., Dimension) Why It Works: Unique “early post-emergent” action kills young weeds already sprouted (up to 1–2 leaf stage). Ideal for unpredictable Texas springs.
Note: Safe for most warm-season grasses. Avoid applying during drought stress.
Pendimethalin (e.g., Pendulum, Scotts Halts) Why It Works: Forms a protective layer to inhibit root growth of germinating seeds. Effective against grassy and broadleaf weeds.
Note: Not recommended for use on St. Augustine grass—opt for prodiamine or dithiopyr instead.
Oxadiazon (e.g., Ronstar) Why It Works: Works through both pre- and early post-emergent activity. Low water solubility reduces leaching in rainy seasons.
Note: Primarily labeled for commercial use or golf courses; check local availability.
Why Post Emergent Matters: Post-emergent herbicides are critical for killing established grassburs that pre-emergent treatments miss. Applying them early (at the 2–4 leaf stage) with liquid formulas ensures maximum absorption, preventing seed spread and breaking the weed’s lifecycle.
Grassburs (sandburs) are best treated early when young and actively growing. As they mature, control becomes tougher. Avoid restricted arsenic-based herbicides like MSMA/DSMA—illegal for residential use in Texas—and opt for these proven, legal alternatives:
1. 2,4-D (e.g., Southern Ag Lawn Weed Killer) Why it Works: It is a selective herbicide made to target specific weeds. (Safe for Bermuda, Tall Fescue, and Kentucky Bluegrass).
Note: Combine 2,4-D with quinclorac or dicamba for better results. Avoid application on St. Augustine lawns unless explicitly labeled as safe.
2. Quinclorac (e.g., Drive XLR8, Onetime) Why It Works: Targets grassy weeds like sandburs without harming most warm-season turf (safe for Bermuda, Zoysia).
Note: Use a surfactant for better adhesion. Avoid application on St. Augustine unless explicitly stated on the label.
3. Sulfentrazone (e.g., Dismiss NXT) Why It Works: Fast-acting on young grassburs and compatible with most lawns. Pairs well with prodiamine (pre-emergent) for season-long control.
4. Fenoxaprop-P-ethyl (e.g., Acclaim Extra) Why It Works: Effective on grassy weeds in Bermuda and Zoysia lawns. Apply to young burs and repeat as needed.
5. Mesotrione (e.g., Tenacity) Why It Works: Selective herbicide safe for St. Augustine, Bermuda, and Zoysia. Works best when combined with a surfactant.
Timing: Treat grassburs at the 2-4 leaf stage for maximum efficacy.
Liquid vs. Granular: Liquid herbicides (sprayable) provide better coverage and absorption than granular options.
Avoid St. Augustine Damage: Always check labels—some herbicides (e.g., Quinclorac) can stress St. Augustine if misapplied.
Pre-emergents alone won’t eliminate existing grassburs. Pair them with post-emergent herbicides (e.g., quinclorac) for full-season control.
In summary, now you know how to get rid of grassburs in your lawn! Keeping your lawn watered properly will go a long way to eliminating stickers. For North Texas lawns, we have created this guide to help keep a good watering schedule – click here for a Lawn Watering Guide.
Water your lawn well after applying pre or post emergent herbicides. Treatments will not be effective without adequate water. The number one reason homeowners are unsuccessful in eliminating grassburs is because they did not water well enough after applying herbicides.
Even if you control and rid your lawn of all current grassbur plants, new plants will emerge next spring from the seeds that are currently in the soil.
Eliminating the grassburs in your lawn will take some time. Helping your grass stay healthy is easy with our Complete Lawn Care Schedule.
When a professional is needed in North Texas for lawn maintenance services, remember Ryno Lawn Care is here to assist you.
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View Comments
Thank you so much for all helpful ideas! I will be trying them on my yard 😉
FYI - I don't know about any other states but, MSMA is not supposed to be sold to retail customers/homeowners in Texas any more
I live in Irving, Tx and can get Target 6 plus delivered directly to me. It’s a powerful chemical and you have to be careful applying it. I have three lawns and the one with the burrs has to be killed out and start over.
I grew up on the Outer Banks of NC, specifically Frisco, on Hatteras Island. We found the easiest way to get rid of these things was to fertilize the hell out of your lawn. You could kill them early spring and keep them gone all year, but it will take a few years before they stop coming up altogether.
They do hate nice lawns.
I live in Utah, we have a very healthy lawn and my husband is anal about watering, but we still seem to get an abundance of these very painful little buggers. Any other suggestiosn
Nothing seems to work
Thank you for the helpful ways to take care of stickers and to have a healthier lawn.
I live in Barbados in the farming area we have then bad, my husband and I are digging them out and putting blankets down to catch them, then we will use a herbicides to kill the weeds so far so good
what kills sticker burrs
Which of these sticker removal tools (herbicides) are not dangerous to a small dog, ie a 12 lb dog
I read about a tool that would pick up burrs and now I can’t find it. If you see the ad please let me know. I am grooming dogs and horses daily trying to get the burrs off of them. Help!